Amid all this funk & splendor, there was nary a sidewalk café, sleek bôite or sketchy pub I didn’t hanker to hang my hat in, but we had to make do with 2.
Galindo‘s a beloved, scuffed-up, decades-old bar serving homestyle Chilean classics like
empanadas de pino with beef, onion, egg, olive & raisins (the Chilean style, at least at the humbler joints & roadside stands, tends toward the oversized & folded rather than crimped at the edges)
& the dish that became an obsession for the 4 of us on this Wines of Chile–led trip: chorrillana.
Light years ahead of chili fries, it’s a platter of papas fritas beneath a pile of beef chunks fried with egg & onions. Ridiculous.
Rather more elegant was El Mesón Nerudiano.
& a perfect complement to the signature appetizer composed of all sorts of seafood salad canapés
The entrees too were typically Chilean—very straightforward, no frills, be it foil-wrapped salmon or beef filet; hardly gorgeous, the photos do accurately portray the satisfying, ingredient-driven simplicity of the national cookery: