Ceviche is a category unto itself in Peru; there, variations on the dish we tend to think of simply as citrus-marinated fish with maybe some chiles & onions are near-endless, & the inclusion of starchy veggies is fairly common.

The use of a sauce like crema de rocoto, however, was new to me. The rocoto is a type of pepper that’s generally pretty spicy, but the ratio of mayo to chile paste in this sea bass ceviche—mounded atop a hefty chunk of sweet potato & sprinkled with toasted corn kernels—tempered the heat considerably. Bite for bite, the mixture was startlingly like a cold seafood casserole—& I loved how the delicate yet firm chunks of fish held up to the creamy, crunchy, & earthy-sweet elements.

But there were numerous runners-up for Dish of the Week last night, when a group of us gathered at Pisco Sour Restaurant & Lounge for dinner amid the celebrants of what appeared to be a baby shower & a handful of raucous soccer fans catching a match on the big screen. Pal A’s aji de gallina, for instance. This traditional stew, based on chicken & potatoes in a parmesan-&-walnut sauce—wait, do I need to say anything else? “Cheese-&-nut sauce” is the #1 synonym for delicious.

The all-around comfort-food theme continued with causa rellena—mashed potatoes layered with a mixture of more chicken, more mayo & more awesomeness.

But wait, there’s still more spud! The papa rellena‘s a potato croquette stuffed with ground beef, tomatoes & raisins & accompanied by a couple of hot sauces (pictured in the photo below it)—one smooth, green & rather salty, the other chunky & tongue-searing. Good thing our gregarious waiter, who I suspect may have been the owner, was so determined to ply us with multiple rounds of the frothy, cooling namesake cocktail.

Mantonat’s anticucho platter included marinated beef heart & what the menu described as pork belly, but was clearly tripe, of which I am ashamed to say I’m not a fan. However, the heart was tender & stellar; if you’ve never had it, rest assured its bloody, iron-y tones aren’t quite as strong as they are in, say, liver. Behind that, pal T’s classic ceviche mixto.

And as for the roast chicken Denver on a Spit split with his kiddos, I’m sure he’ll have a word or 2 to say about that on his own blog, so keep your eyes peeled. I know he’d agree with me overall that this extremely warm & welcoming place is doing Peruvian cuisine a solid, complete with complimentary dishes of puffy, soft corn nuts mixed with plantain chips that they should really sell in bulk to make a mint off the likes of me.

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